The Szekler Gates of Harghita

I have recently returned from Romania where I was on the Jury of Experts for the International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts & Tourism, that unanimously recommended Harghita for the European Region of Gastronomy 2027 title. Harghita is particularly famous for its meadows and food culture, with the predominant farming method small-scale with low inputs, creating a biodiversity second to none… but today we are talking gates!

Cattle grazing in October, with herders & traditional guard dogs as this is bear country

A gated community is generally seen as a collective of residences, synonymous with security, often guarded, with a tight perimeter boundary. In some respects this rings true for any gate: after all our home is our castle and we all want to feel safe, however in Harghita, Transylvania, it is not gated communities but communities of gates! Stunningly carved, enriched with a story to tell, there are villages with literally hundreds of such gates that play a major role in the beautifully rich tapestry of the region and the character of its people. Some gates are a century old and others new; signs of the next generation setting down roots, making a home for their family and creating their own life story.

The history of the Szekler gates of Harghita goes back centuries, depicting the families who live therein, and indeed is itself considered part of the family. From the carved symbols by skilled carpenters, one may determine the resident’s occupation and pastimes, the family and their religion, elements of their lives and loves, and carved texts of welcome, advice or thanksgiving. The gate posts are akin to totems, rising from the ground with the sun and two flowers at its base representing the tree of life, symbolising birth from two parents and “growing” upwards through life to the gate tops. The doors may have deer representing hunting, a man throwing a pot depicting a ceramist, or a family coat of arms.

Look upwards and birds make an appearance on the gateposts; doves ready for their flights heavenwards but not before pausing in the intricate doocot resting upon each gate. These doves gaze down through the windows, resting and reflecting before entering heaven, wondering, did I make a difference?

Children are taught to look up as they pass these gates, and ask themselves, did I make a difference today? This is a strong message and one that carries on through life. Whether or not you are religious, it builds character and mindfulness.

As we walked through the village to our next foodie destination, we could inhale the scintillating aroma of pork wafting through the air. Preparations were underway for a village wedding and a whole hog was on a spit in the garden, rotating and sizzling. Elsewhere the family were decorating the gate and pathway to their home with spruce branches, creating a canopy and carpet for the young couple starting their new life together. This is just a taster of our food travel experiences in Harghita with a promise of more to come.